Ipar’s authentic
WITH IPAR Ouano Miranda’s passionate obsession with food, I am inclined to believe he was born with a chef’s toque, together with the silver spoon in his mouth. Coming from prominent Cebuano families, Ipar grew up immersed in Spanish-influenced cookery in the old-style Spanish kitchens of their huge ancestral homes.
I have known Ipar since his boyhood, being the best friend of my son Jason. They both started Kindergarten I in the Cebu International School and have been inseparable until they finished high school in 1994. I remember him as a robust, healthy boy with a tremendous sense of humor. He must have been in his early teens when he started curing meats like Pork Tocino, Longganiza and Tapa (dried Pork meat), which found its way into our freezer. Cooking was definitely in his young blood, but being a chef was something his father did not fully appreciate then. He was being groomed to be the heir apparent of the flourishing family businesses. Among the family’s businesses that involve food are the hacienda (sugarcane plantation) in Bogo and the fishponds that yield prawns and milkfish (bangus). As a good son, he dutifully took up Business Management albeit with a heavy heart.
His boyhood dream took wings when he flew to Los Angeles and took up crash courses in French culinary arts in the Beverly Hills Epicurean School of Culinary Arts in 2000. His passion for learning more brought him to Les San Jose in Cuenca in the Castile-La Mancha province of Spain. This became his home for three years, where he apprenticed and honed his love for cooking. He also had the privilege of training with Spain’s legendary celebrity chef Karlos Arguanano. Ipar’s Restaurant & Tapas Bar, located in front of their stately white house along Ramos Street, boasts of authentic Spanish cuisine—embodying what is closest to his heart: cooking with soul, dreams and the finest ingredients. And, if I may add, a lot of humor and laughter go with every dish he prepares. His traditional dishes that Filipinos may find all too familiar have a cleaner, very refined taste. Ipar’s invitation for dinner with my family started with his light Tapas (hors d ‘oeuvres or appetizers) consisting of Boquirones, our local libgaw or big bolinao fish marinated in native vinegar, garlic and chopped parsley; Gambas Al Ajillo, Calamares ala Romana and a bowl of assorted pickled olives, white baby onions and jerkins. The typical Tortilla de Patatas was served, which is always a part of a Spanish meal. His Paella (we chose Marinera, good for six persons), which must be ordered an hour before dinnertime, was one of the authentic ones I have eaten. Ipar explains that he prepares this with the very basic Sofrito that consists of garlic, onion and tomatoes cooked in olive oil. Variations may use bell peppers and paprika. In Filipino cooking, we saute the same using regular cooking oil for our ginisa dishes. He continues to explain that he uses Ganador rice in the absence of the Bomba variety so the paella is grainy and never sticky.
Saffron, naturally is used to impart the distinct flavor and yellow-orange color of the rice. The shellfish have been peeled so the paella did not look clattered, which appealed to all of us. Our main courses included Lengua Estofada, which that was quite different from our Filipino version that tends to be dark and borders on the sweetish side; Pescado Al Ajillo (Cream Dory fillet cooked in olive oil and garlic); and Callos, a rich stew of ox tripe, leg, Spanish sausages and spices. His classic Postres or desserts were to die for—Flan de Leche al Caramelo (devilishly rich, nutty and creamy with a secret ingredient I am not allowed to divulge) and Leche Frita (Fried Milk Squares), a typical Spanish dessert from San Sebastian, the original recipe of which Ipar has followed strictly. Buenissimo!
