Dagupan City: ‘Kitchen of the North’

STREET FOOD Residents and tourists seek the familiar taste of Dagupan “bangus” grilled to perfection. PHOTOS BY WILLIE LOMIBAO/CONTRIBUTOR

More and more tourists have been rediscovering the coastal city of Dagupan in Pangasinan province, not only for its famous “bangus” (milkfish) but for the culinary adventure and experience it offers.

“This is the kitchen of the North. There’s a lot to eat and it’s cheap,” says Martin Valera, Ilocos regional director of the Department of Tourism.

“I think this is its secret. The food here is delicious. Not only bangus, but the ‘pigar-pigar’ (deep-fried beef), the ‘kaleskes’ (innards stew) and others,” he says.

On a typical weekend, a tourist can hop from one restaurant to another to try a variety of bangus and other seafood dishes.

“We are teeming with seafood restaurants,” says Rose Teng-Mejia, senior tourism operations officer of the city government.

One can have breakfast, for instance, at Pedrito’s Restaurant and order “daing na bangus” or “bangus paksiw.” A good option would be Dagupeña Restaurant in nearby Calasiao town, where its sizzling bangus is simply mouth-watering.

Among the eating places are Matutina’s in Bonuan Tondaligan, Silverio’s in Bonuan Gueset, Kuya Max’s, Mang Peping’s, Sidney’s and the newer one, Jacobo’s on De Venecia Highway, where each offers a completely different dining experience.

The newest restaurant, Ciudad Elmina Fishing Village, which is owned by former Mayor Alipio Fernandez Jr., allows diners to catch their own tilapia for cooking.

Another adventure would be to eat pigar-pigar at dusk on Galvan Street, where dining tables are set in the middle of the road.

“The best food in the province is in Dagupan City. We have the best bangus and fresh seafood,” says Mayor Belen Fernandez.

“Pigar-pigar” or deep-fried beef, one of the the city’s popular street fares.

History buffs

For history buffs, a walking tour can start from the City Hall.

“The old water tower behind it is over a 100 years old. A short walk further down the street will lead you to the old cathedral, which was lovingly restored by former Lingayen-Dagupan Archbishop Oscar Cruz,” Mejia says.

“Masses are held there every day. This is the church where Leonor Rivera and English railroad engineer Henry Kipping were married in 1890,” she says.

Rivera, a former girlfriend of national hero Dr. Jose Rizal, was from Camiling town in Tarlac province. She often came to Dagupan at that time and stayed for several days in the house of her relatives in the city.

From there, one can walk westward toward West Central Elementary School and catch a glimpse of the only remaining Gabaldon-type structure in Dagupan. Mejia says the old Home Economics building in the school compound served as headquarters of American General Douglas MacArthur.

“Dagupan has something for everyone. Be it history, culture, devotions and gastronomic adventures. It is also here in the city center, where we can rest and then shop for all the goodies we can carry to bring home,” she says.

Breakfast by the beach

Former city tourism officer Michelle Zarate-Lioanag, a long time resident, says she always takes her guests to Tondaligan Beach for breakfast and morning swim.

“BANGUS” harvested from Dagupan’s ponds remain a bestseller in the city’s homegrown restaurants. EV ESPIRITU

“It is always a success when I bring my guests for this experience. I also try to hit the beach before dusk, especially after having a tough day. Again, the sea breeze calms me,” she says.

Tondaligan beach park is now a popular place for skim boarding, a water sport where a board smaller than a surfboard is used to glide across the water’s surface to meet an incoming, breaking wave and ride it back to shore.

Lioanag says that after a short tour around the downtown area, she would bring her guests to the city’s fish market for them to witness how bangus are being traded and sorted.

By bus, this city is four and half hours away from Metro Manila. Buses leave their terminals in Pasay City and Cubao district in Quezon City every 30 minutes.

Jump-off point

Dagupan is also a convenient jump-off point to any tourist destination in the province. One can be at the Our Lady of the Holy Rosary of Manaoag church in Manaoag town in 45 minutes, hear Mass for an hour, and head back to this city.

A visitor can also reach the capital, Lingayen town, in 30 minutes for a tour of the newly refurbished provincial capitol. Or travel an hour more to Alaminos City to visit the Hundred Islands National Park and return to Dagupan for the night.

Mayor Fernandez says the city government will soon launch the “islands tour,” where visitors are on a “bahay kubo”-inspired boat that will be sailing to the city’s island villages, where Dagupan’s “One Fish, One Barangay (village)” program is showcased.

“It will be an exciting experience for our tourists,” she says.