Ilocos mardi gras also way to revive dying fabric trade

PAOAY, Ilocos Norte, Philippines—The annual mardi gras that signals the end of earthly pleasures for Catholics in this town is also an occasion to breathe life to a dying industry.

From home accents to dresses of festival dancers, the “Guling-Guling” Festival held on Tuesday was a time for residents to use hand-woven fabric and revive the town’s traditional loom weaving industry.

Guling-guling dates back to the Spanish period when friars conceived of an occasion for priests to interact with their parishioners.

It is celebrated on the eve of Ash Wednesday because it was believed that it was the last day for merrymaking before townsfolk observe Lent.

“Guling” was derived from an Ilocano word that means to mark, smear or make a sign.

In the past, the chieftain (now mayor) would imprint the sign of the cross on a person’s forehead using wet, white rice flour to signify purity.

To loom weavers, the festival is a chance to restore Ilocanos’ interest in the ailing but otherwise profitable “abel Iloco” (Ilocano woven fabric) industry.

Charito Cariaga, who heads a cooperative of loom weavers, says the festival could revive the industry and support communities that continue to embrace traditional skills passed on by their elders.

“We need to generate sustained interest in our products before this ancient industry becomes merely a thing of the past,” she says.

Town records show a dwindling number of loom weavers from 100,000 to more than 500, who are mostly elderly.

In late 1990, former Ilocos Norte governor and now senator Ferdinand Marcos Jr. saw the industry as nearing extinction and created a training center to promote the craft among the youth.

The training center was closed down in early 2000 but residents who underwent workshops and skills training have formed cooperatives to sustain the industry.

The cooperatives’ products were showcased in a trade exhibit as part of the festival events.