Journey to Cebu churches
Every Holy Thursday, from early evening until midnight, groups Roman Catholic faithful conduct a pious exercise called “Visita de las Iglesias” or “Visita Iglesia”, meaning Visit to Churches. This is a Hispanic Catholic tradition which Filipinos have learned to love and observe, Lent after Lent, for over 400 years.
It is done on the night of Holy Thursday to commemorate the Lord’s Last Supper, his institution of the Holy Eucharist, and his Agony in the Garden, and is considered a penitential act. When one does the Visita Iglesia, one relives the last night of Jesus Christ on earth, and accompanies him in his moment of sorrow.
The focus of the devotion is the Blessed Sacrament, the consecrated bread and wine, which is adored as the Body and Blood of Jesus Christ. It is removed from its traditional place in the sanctuary of a church and transferred to a side altar temporarily built for the occasion.
Cebuanos keep a tradition of visiting seven churches in honor of the Seven Sacraments (Baptism, Confirmation, Confession, the Holy Eucharist, Marriage, Priesthood, and Anointing of the Sick and the Dying), although there is no strict rule as to the number of churches one may visit.
During the visit, the faithful prays silently and recalls with devotion the great love of Jesus for mankind, who on this night began his physical suffering in with the Agony in the Garden of Gethsemane. When coming as a family or a group, a leader usually prepares a set of prayers to be recited after a minute or two of silent recollection.
The Blessed Sacrament is encased in a small tabernacle and kept in an Altar of Repose in the church. As an added attraction for a provincial Visita Iglesia, devotees can view a fabulous floral arrangement adorning the different Altars of Repose in each church. Fans of architecture and design can also observe the whole church building, with various influences of Baroque, neo-classical and colonial styles for structures built during the Spanish era.
Some visit only one church, usually their parish church, especially in towns where long distances would discourage a multiple church visit. But the local parish church is visited three, five or as many times within the night, each visit lasting no more than 15 minutes.
I remember my mother who would bring all of us in one church to attend the Mass of the Lord’s Supper at 5 p.m., go home for a meatless dinner, and return to the church, using different side doors for each of the five “visits”. She explained that the five visits are in honour of the five Precious Wounds of Jesus on the Cross.
With private cars available today, devout Cebuanos now move out of the city to exercise this annual devotion and to avoid the crowds.
So, whether you plan to go south or north of the city, please remember that this night is different from all other nights of the year. Tonight, our agonizing Paschal Lamb, Jesus Christ, offered himself as a willing victim to suffer and die for our sins , so that we may be restored in God’s good graces.
Happy Easter, everyone!
1. El Pardo de Cebu – This parish of St. Thomas of Villanueva was once a separate pueblo from the city until the American colonial government annexed it to the city in 1900. Its Spanish structure is still intact, although the interior has been refurbished and modernized.
2. Talisay City – The old church dedicated to St. Teresa of Avila retains its colonial exterior but the interior is modernized.
3. Minglanilla – The hilltop shrine of the Immaculate Heart of Mary retains much of its colonial flavour.
4. City of Naga – The beautifully carved facade of the San Francisco de Asis Parish Church in Baroque style is still extant although the interior is already contemporary.
The facade is “the only one in Cebu that is so heavily embellished with motifs and symbols in bas relief uniquely combining Islamic and indigenous Central American or Mexican influences” according to the book Balaanong Bahandi describes
5. San Fernando – This parish of St. Isidore the Farmer had its two side belfries cut short by a strong typhoon, and was never rebuilt to its original height.
6. Carcar – This is one of the most beautifully preserved churches in Cebu, with its quaint onion shaped belfry tops (Orthodox architecture). The main retablo, however, has undergone various restorations.
7. Sibonga – This has the most beautifully painted and preserved ceiling, depicting various events in the life of the faithful, starting with the martyrs in the Roman coliseum at the entrance, and ending with the Seven Days of Creation in the Sanctuary.
1. National Shrine of Saint Joseph, Mandaue City – Only the meter-thick side walls remind us of its colonial origin, but this modernized church is the center of Josephite devotion in the country. It was named a National Shrine by the Catholic Bishop’s Conference of the Philippines.
2. Gethsemane Parish – Located in the interior of barangay Casuntingan in Mandaue City, this church has a unique garden sanctuary with a larger than life sized concrete image of Jesus and the angel in the Garden of Gethsemane.
3. Holy Family Parish – Along A.S. Fortuna Street, still in Mandaue City, this American colonial house-like modern church structure is another sight to behold.
4. Our Lady of Fatima Parish – This archdiocesan shrine along the northern highway going north is still in Mandaue City. Just like Gethsemane, it has an open air and garden sanctuary.
5. Consolacion – Dedicated to the patronage of Saint Narcissus, Bishop of Jerusalem and patron of Senior Citizens, this modern church is located along the first town north of Mandaue.
6. Lilo-an – A personal favourite, the church of Saint Ferdinand of Castille retained much of its original exterior and interior appearances. Parking space is wide too.
7. Danao City – Even if only the facade is left of the original huge building, this seaside church in honor of St. Thomas of Villanova is still worth visiting on a Holy Thursday night.
