Cooking Ilocano goat dishes in Vancouver
A GATHERING of all seven siblings in Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada to celebrate our Nanay’s good life at 94 years old is a momentous moment, given that we live oceans apart. My youngest brother Raul and I travelled the farthest from Cebu while the others came from the United States of America and Toronto, Canada. With everyone accounted for, we left Renaissance Inn Marriott situated downtown and moved to a luxurious floating home in Mosquito Creek Marina, North of Vancouver. My brother Max ensured the place would comfortably accommodate 12 of us. We delighted in the experience of staying in a floating home that gently sways with the waves. The appointments were impeccable and we were impressed by the state of the art equipment and gadgets. The view from the veranda was breathtaking—white sails of boats and yatchs moored along the marina against the seemingly endless blue of the sea and sky.
Slaughtering a goat for a feast in Vancouver may be unthinkable but we managed to purchase a live young goat to please the culinary cravings of our Ilocano mother. We drove an hour to Surrey, close to the border, to locate an unbelievably dingy and rundown “farm” where Filipinos illegally raised fighting cocks. The continuous rain added to the ordeal. Moreover, the purchase of the slaughtered goat may very well be one for the books. Quite an experience, I might say, but we got what we wanted—a whole goat with the skin torched, which is essential for the characteristic taste for the Papait.
My brother Julio, who works as a cook, took charge in the cooking of authentic Ilocano dishes like the Papait and Pinakbet. I got a few pointers from Julio about Papait, which is enjoyed as an appetizer and the Papaitan, a soupy dish. Both dishes use the innards, the green enzymes from the small intestine or isaw and bile to impart the bitter taste that Ilocanos love. The small intestines are boiled separately, setting aside the broth with the green enzymes. The innards were also boiled in water with plenty of ginger and lemon juice (in lieu of calamansi) to remove the odor. A labor-intensive dish, we had to slice the torched skin and the innards. We volunteered to help, including my brothers Raul, Max and Primo. There were heads of garlic and shallots to peel. The garlic was coarsely processed while the shallots were sliced. Nanay hovered around to make sure the cooking was precisely Ilocano way. The sliced innards and small intestines are sautéed with plenty of garlic and shallots, simmered for a long time, adding more lemon juice while cooking. Taste is adjusted with salt and pepper and red chili (siling labuyo), adding the green enzymes and bile at the last. Papait is best eaten on the following day. In fact, the leftover Papait that lasted for days even tasted better. I took over the cooking of Goat Caldereta (meat with bones) and Julio roasted the Goat Leg with plenty of rosemary.
Cooking together was a poignant experience. Memories came rushing in and we were like kids laughing at our follies while growing up. This togetherness must have made Nanay the happiest mother ever.
