Chef Franco’s Sicilian touch

UPON my arrival from New York on the 1st of July, I found the invitation and a handwritten note from Shangri-La’s Mactan Resort & Spa’s Director of Communications Mildred Amon on top of the mails that accumulated during my absence. Chef Gianfranco Pirrone, I learned, has joined the premier resort’s culinary team as Italian Chef of its stylish Italian restaurant, Acqua.Chef Franco hails from the Southern Italian Region of Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Only in his late 30’s, Chef Franco brings with him almost a lifetime of cooking experience, which started when he was a boy who learned the art of cookery from his grandmother. He relates that his parents were both working so he had to cook for himself and his sister. At an early age, he remembers that his first lesson was mastering the subtle art of seasoning. And this became the essence of his culinary philosophy. The balance of flavors is essential in any of his classic Sicilian dish.

Italian cuisine is characterized by its extreme simplicity. Most Italian cooks rely on the quality of the ingredients rather that the elaborate preparation. Chef Franco’s menu in Acqua offers traditional Italian favorites with fresh Mediterranean influences as well as his own creations. Lunch with Mildred Amon started with a trio of appetizers—Buffalo Mozarella with Tomato, Sicilian Seafood Salad and Carpaccio di Manzo —all refreshingly appetizing, the interplay of flavors were not overwhelming on the palate. The plump Buffalo Mozarella is imported from Italy. The shrimps were lightly dressed with a bit of the saltiness of capers. The carpaccio or thinly sliced raw beef was drizzled with olive oil and a dash of lemon juice. Zuppa di Porri e Patate (Leek and potato soup) had a soothing quality, pretty much like soups prepared by grandmas. The Trilogy of Pasta expresses Chef’s Franco’s preference for fresh and healthy ingredients—Lasagna di Verdure or Green Vegetables Lasagna had zucchini. leeks and pesto; Penne Gricia was a perfect balance of guanciale (cured pork jowl) and pecorino cheese, tangy grating cheese made from sheep’s milk; Linguine al Nero con Polpa di Granchio or Black Linguini with Creamy Crab Sauce is any seafood lover’s delight. Chef explained that the pasta is made with squid ink. I told Chef Franco that I find it difficult to get enough ink sacs from the squid when I cook my Paella Negra, He smiled and informed me that he has a supplier for the precious squid ink sac. I was starting to feel the sensation of fullness when the main course, Bistecca di Salmone con Salsa ala mostarde e miele (Salmon Steak with mustard and honey sauce) was served with house made potato chips and sautéed Parmesan spinach. The Salmon was fresh and sweet while the generous molded spinach with Parmesan was very tasty and healthy.

But I definitely had room for dessert—Duet of Cassata Siciliana and Acqua Tiramisu. Cassata is a popular traditional Sicilian dessert sometimes referred to as Neapolitan Ice cream made of sponge cake moistened with fruit juice and layered with ricotta cheese, candied fruits and peel, and vanilla cream filling. It was divine! The Tiramisu will lift up anyone’s taste bud, which was fancily balanced on a dainty crystal bowl.