Is hair coloring safe?

IN THIS day and age of social consciousness, where youth and inner and outer beauty are revered, where image is considered very important, hair coloring has become a widely accepted cosmetic aid. Among those who used this hair grooming tool was US President Ronald Reagan, even in his 80s. Many public figures and media celebrities, especially women, have benefited from the practice.

Are there advances in research and development over the past 60 years which have resulted in hair dyes and coloring system that are more efficient, less damaging to hair fiber, and safer in general? Let’s explore and comb through this colorful issue.

How old is hair-dyeing?

Hair coloring may have even pre-dated civilization itself. This is one of oldest cosmetic procedures known to man, besides face and body color artwork, which was practiced by ancient cultures in Egypt, Greece, Hebrew nation, Persia, China and early among Hindu people. Today, this is universally common appearance-enhancing tool and a trillion-dollar business industry.

What are these dyes made of?

In the Roman times, dyes were made from plants and metallic compounds (copper, iron), or a combination of them (rock alum, quicklime and wood ash). Others included birch bark, brazilwood, walnut leaves or nut husks and galls from oak trees. saffron, myrrh, mullein, turmeric, chamomile plant, and henna. The last two are still used today in some organic preparations.

Current commercial preparations use complex formula, which varies among manufacturers. Believe it or not, more than 5,000 different chemicals are used in various formulas to achieve the desired color and shade for each product.

“In general, hair dyes include dyes, modifiers, antioxidents, alkalizers, soaps, ammonia, wetting agents, fragrance, and a variety of other chemicals used in small amounts that impart special qualities to hair (such as softening the texture) or give a desired action to the dye (such as making it more or less permanent). The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds, and show up on hair dye ingredient lists with such names as 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene and m-Aminophenol. Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are often used as pigments as well. Other chemicals used in hair dyes act as modifiers, which stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the shade.” – eNotes.

What are the types of hair dyes?

About 80 percent of hair coloring agent used today is the permanent type, which does not wash out. The other types include the so called progressive or gradual, which is applied over a period of time until the desired shade is reached, semi-permanent, which stay through multiple washings, and temporary, which can be shampooed out. This includes the touch-up solutions.

Does hair coloring damage hair?

Any chemical applied to hair can damage it. Permanent hair dye binds to hair, weakening the shaft, making it dryer and brittle. Bleaching hair (like the use of hydrogen peroxide) which removed color also makes hair dry and brittle. Use of hair conditioner after shampooing, or leave-in condition with silicone can minimize the damage. Hair color changes can cause irreparable hair damage, like “dry weathering” and split ends, so hair coloring should not be done more often than once every 4-6 weeks, when the roots have grown about 8.5 mm to 11 mm (about a 3rd of an inch). Limiting exposure to sunlight and water (especially chemically-treated swimming pool) can reduce damage and fading to color-treated hair.

How does one choose hair color?

Cosmetic experts note that the skin becomes more transparent as people age, so hair color that is too dark tends to make one look paler and hair that is too light can wash out the complexion. In view of these observations, they recommend that those with black hair go one shade lighter than their base color, and blondes go one shade darker.

How popular is hair coloring?

Very. Greater than a third of women over age 18 use some type of hair dye, as a permanent color or for highlighting. Men are not far behind. The practice is motivated by the desire to add a little excitement to life, improve an image, or  make a fashion statement.

Do hair dyes cause cancer?

Lead acetate, which is found in some gradual or progressive hair dyes preparations  usually used by men, is classified as “probable carcinogen (cancer-causing agent)” based on laboratory studies in animals. The US-FDA, however, says that these products, which carry the warning about lead acetate, “can be used safely.” My medical opinion is “why even take the risk?” Women who started using hair dyes before 1980 were deemed possibly at increased risk of non-Hodgkin Lymphoma compared to those who did not dye their hair, according to a pooled analysis of four medical studies then. Manufacturers revised the formulas for hair dye products in the mid- to late 70s. Also, it was felt that the research did not prove that hair dyes were to blame. It appears today’s hair dyes are generally safe.

Can hair dye be used in eyebrows or eyelashes?

No, hair dyes should never be used for eyebrows and eyelashes, since these are toxic to the eyes. The US-FDA legally prohibits its use for these, even in salons. There are pencils, powders, or gels, etc. specially made for the eyebrows which are available.

Is hair coloring safe for babies in the womb?

While it may be safe for the pregnant mother, there is no guarantee hair coloring is safe for the fetus. According to the American Congress of Obstetricians and Gynecologists since little dye is absorbed through the skin, hair coloring during pregnancy is “most likely safe.” The American Academy of Family Physicians “recommends avoiding exposure to hair dye and treatments during the first three months of pregnancy as a precaution.” Again, our position is “since there is no proof that hair dye is totally safe for the baby in the womb, no matter the age, why even take the risk? If hair color change is a “must” during pregnancy, for any justifiable reason I cannot fathom, perhaps the use of highlighting could be an option, since it uses a lot less dye. But even this can wait for the sake of the baby.

Are today’s dyes safer than those of the past?

The first major chemistry innovation in nearly half a century, according to P&G Beauty, is “a new hair chemistry called amino-glycine technology,” which makes the hair coloring system faster (10 minutes versus the old 20 to 30 minutes to develop) and much less damaging to the hair. And added benefit: the new formula has a lower pH (9 compared to 11, which was very damaging), is ammonia-free (no odor and more gentle), and provides better coloring quality. There are other advances in hair dyeing technology out there and others in the making, generally with one major goal: to make hair coloring safer, lesser-damaging, more efficient, longer lasting, and of maximally better quality.

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