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Vienna’s iconic hotel turns to drive-in cake

/ 04:58 AM November 30, 2020

HAVING YOUR CAKE Concierge Uwe Kotzendorfer waits at the entrance of the Hotel Sacher in Vienna for customers driving by for a box or two of the hotel’s world-famous chocolate, Sacher Torte, priced between $60 and $71. —AFP

VIENNA—The coronavirus pandemic may have forced many of Vienna’s luxury hotels to close indefinitely as global travel restrictions keep away the many millions of tourists who usually visit the Austrian capital every year.

But the city’s iconic Hotel Sacher is determined not to let fans of its world-famous chocolate cake go hungry.

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The hotel’s concierge, Uwe Kotzendorfer, is selling “Sacher Torte,” as the rich delicacy is known, on a drive-in stand just across the road from Vienna’s prestigious State Opera house.

“I do a bit of everything now,” says

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Kotzendorfer, standing next to a small two-wheel cart stacked high with cakes, as he hands an imperial red bag containing one of them to a customer driving past in his BMW.

“I thought it was a fantastic idea,” says another customer, Claudia Bednar.

“Because we can no longer travel, I am going to send one to my aunt in Germany for her 65th wedding anniversary,” she says as she hands out a credit card to pay for the cake, which typically costs between $60 and $71.

Deserted

The vast majority of the Sacher’s staff are now on government-subsidized furlough.

And the rooms and dining halls in the six neoclassical buildings—decorated with autographed images of previous guests such as Britain’s Prince Charles, Franco-German film star Romy Schneider and US opera singer Jessye Norman—are deserted.

Nevertheless, the hotel insists on displaying fresh flower arrangements to honor five business travelers currently staying there.

For those parts of the hotel currently unoccupied, the management is carrying out some much-needed maintenance, and Kotzendorfer often guides workmen around the deserted swathes of the building.

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Long-term family plan

According to owner and managing director Matthias Winkler, the Sacher is the last five-star hotel in Vienna that is still in family hands.

“We’ve gone through many trials since the creation of the brand and our family is still planning for the long term,” said Winkler, who took over the hotel from his mother-in-law in 2015.

The current virus-induced economic downturn is also taking a heavy toll.

International travelers typically account for more than 90 percent of the hotel’s annual 23,000 overnight stays, with rooms costing anything between $480 and $2,700 per night in the low season. But with the virus lockdowns, that source of income has now been all but wiped out.

Sacher’s cakes, which are shipped and sold across the world, are helping keep the brand alive.

Advantage

Although international brands have larger financial resources, Winkler believes that being family-run is turning out to be an advantage during the pandemic.

“Here, decisions are made at a family meeting, without taking orders from abroad,” he says.

The Hotel Sacher and the Sacher Torte have a long history.

In 1832, a young pastry chef called Franz Sacher was working on a new recipe he hoped would become all the rage at the Habsburg’s imperial court.

The ingredients were whipped cream, a lot of cocoa, jam to add moisture, and a rich layer of chocolate frosting.

Forty-four years later, Sacher’s son, Eduard, opened the hotel in Vienna’s first district. But it was really only after Eduard’s death in 1892 that the hotel enjoyed its glamorous heyday under the management of Eduard’s widow, Anna Sacher.

As one of the first women to be allowed to own and run a business, the visionary matriarch became well-known for her wit.

The city’s high society normally gathers for a dinner in the Sacher before the famous Opera Ball. But this year’s event has fallen victim to the pandemic.

“A part of the history of Austria rests in our hands,” says the hotel’s deputy director, Doris Schwarz.

“More than ever, it is a question of being up to the task,” she says. —AFP

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TAGS: drive-in cake service, Hotel Sacher, Sacher Torte
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